Periodontal disease is an inflammation and/or infection of the gums and bone around the teeth, and according to the American Veterinary Dental Society, without proper dental care 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats develop some degree of gum disease by the time they're three years old.

It starts with an accumulation of plaque, a soft, whitish-yellow deposit consisting of food, bacteria and other debris. At this point, it is still easily removed by brushing or wiping the teeth, but if it remains, mineral salts in the saliva cause it to harden into tartar or calculus, a hard yellow-brown deposit that can only be removed by professional cleaning.

As the tartar builds up, the gums become inflamed and infected, turning red, swollen and painful. They may separate from the teeth, creating pockets where more plaque, tartar and bacteria accumulate. In severe cases, pus may be seen coming from the tooth socket and the teeth may become so loose they fall out. This is accompanied by progressively worse smelling breath-always an indicator that something is wrong with your pet.

Periodontal disease can be very painful and debilitating. Your pet may have trouble eating or lose her appetite, appear dull and lacking in energy, be irritable or act like an older animal. In addition to direct effects in the mouth, there may be serious consequences throughout the body. The gums have a rich blood supply and bacteria and toxins can reach other organs through the blood, in particular the heart, liver and kidney. In the heart, they can settle on the valves, affecting their function and causing congestive heart failure, one of the more common causes of poor health and premature death in older animals. Inhalation of bacteria may also result in chronic lung disease. The effects become more severe as the pet ages and the immune system becomes exhausted or over-stimulated and chronic wear and tear takes its toll.

Once tartar has taken hold on your pet's teeth, professional cleaning is essential to remove it and stop its progression. In mild cases with a cooperative animal, it may be possible to remove the tartar by hand scaling. More severe accumulation and infection requires a general anesthetic and ultrasonic cleaning. Gum surgery and extractions may also be necessary.

Post-Surgical Remedies
Following surgery, you can speed up your pet's recovery using some natural remedies. Homeopathic Arnica 30C, derived from a group of plants in the sunflower family, will help to heal damaged tissue, reduce swelling and inflammation and relieve pain. It can be given every 2 hours for the first day, then gradually stopped over the next four or five days. If your veterinarian is open to the idea, a couple of pellets can be tucked under the lip immediately after surgery. For a small dog or cat the pellet can be crushed and the powder can be put under the lip.

Dr. Don Hamilton, author of Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs, recommends putting four or five drops of Rescue Remedy with a few pellets of Arnica in a dropper bottle with water and giving a few drops immediately after surgery, then every couple of hours for the first day and gradually decreasing the dose over the next few days.

Hypericum – commonly known as St. John's Wort-is useful for any area that has a rich nerve supply such as the teeth and gums. Give a couple of pellets of Hypericum 30C the day of surgery and for a couple of days following. It is particularly appropriate when there have been extractions. Ruta graveolens 30C can also be used in a similar manner if extractions have caused damage to surrounded bone.

An excellent alternative is Traumeel. It contains a combination of several homeopathic remedies that control inflammation and support healing. It is readily available in liquid or tablet form at many health food stores or natural pharmacies. Dissolve two tablets in a dropper bottle with water and dose on the same schedule as the Arnica, 1/8 to 1/2 dropper depending on the size of your pet.

Calendula tincture diluted with water at a ratio of 1:10 will also help injured tissue. Using a syringe, gently coat the gums with the solution 2 or 3 times a day.

Once the mouth has healed, keep your pet's teeth clean by removing plaque before it becomes tartar using a soft toothbrush of a suitable size, a rubber finger brush, or a piece of gauze. The frequency will depend on how readily your pet develops plaque. The quality of your pet's diet as well as their overall health play a major role in determining this. If you want to use toothpaste, be sure to purchase one formulated for animals (never use your own). Be sure to examine your pet's mouth regularly to catch oral health issues before they become serious problems.

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According to the Natural Resources Defense Council, about 10 million tons of salt are used on roads in the United States each year, and that number doesn't include the amount of salt individuals and businesses use on walkways on private property.

Road salt and ice melting products used for de-icing roads and sidewalks are an irritant and are increasingly recognized as a serious environmental toxin. They are described as a toxic substance as defined by the Canadian Environmental Protection Act of 1999 and pose a risk to plants, animals, and the aquatic environment. Most road salt is composed of chloride combined with sodium, calcium, magnesium or potassium, they may also contain ferrocyanide salts. Unlike table salt, they may contain other contaminants, including heavy metals depending on where they are sourced. While data on toxicity in people and pets is limited, the Precautionary Principle suggests that we should do our best to limit or eliminate our pets' exposure.

Many dogs suffer from painful burning and cracked and dried out pads from walking on salt-treated roads and sidewalks. If not washed off, your pet can also ingest the salt through licking. This can cause serious irritation and inflammation in the mouth and digestive system, and possibly electrolyte imbalance if a significant quantity is taken in. Chronic ingestion adds to your pet's total toxic load, which could contribute to a variety of degenerative diseases.

Where possible, avoid roads, sidewalks, and walkways that have been salted. As soon as you get in from a walk, wash your pet's feet with warm (not hot) water and dry them thoroughly. Also wipe or wash off other areas that have been exposed such as the underside, especially in small or heavy coated dogs.

If your dog tolerates them, boots are also a good solution, but an alternative is to use a natural cream or wax-based paw protection that is applied before going out. An added advantage is that these can soothe and moisturize dry, cracked pads. One caution: Be sure the ingredients are all-natural and food grade. Not only can different compounds be absorbed through the skin and pads, but your dog is likely to ingest some even after the paws are wiped clean. If you do not recognize the ingredients, contact the manufacturer to be sure.

As far as what to use on icy areas on your own property, look for an environmentally friendly, non-toxic alternative to salt such as EcoTraction. Made from an all-natural volcanic mineral it provides excellent traction on ice, and unlike salt, does not lose its effectiveness in really cold temperatures. It is safe around children and pets, even if accidentally ingested, and is actually beneficial for the garden and the environment generally. It releases beneficial minerals into the soil and even helps remove toxins from the environment.

By simply employing preventative care, avoiding salted areas, and using a non-toxic alternative to salt, your pet can enjoy the outdoors this winter without the resulting sore paws or toxic effects.

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Hypothermia occurs when the body temperature drops below normal. Indoor dogs, particularly small and/or shorthaired ones are obviously more susceptible, but even outdoor dogs with heavy coats can be affected by extreme cold and wind if they lack adequate shelter. Old dogs, puppies, and those with pre-existing medical conditions such as hypothyroidism are also at greater risk.

Signs of mild hypothermia include violent shivering, listlessness, weakness, and depression, and body temperature in this stage is between 90 and 97 Fahrenheit. Mild hypothermia can be treated with blankets and insulation. Contact your veterinarian, even if your pet seems to be back to normal.

Moderate hypothermia is characterized by muscle stiffness, low heart rate and blood pressure, slow and shallow breathing, and stupor, and body temperature during moderate hypothermia is 82F to 90F. Moderate hypothermia requires application of external heat sources such as heating pads, warm water packs or hot water bottles (warm to wrist) applied to the abdomen, chest, armpit, or groin areas, not the limbs. Always put a protective layer between the heat source and the skin to prevent burns and tissue damage. A hair dryer on the low setting is also useful, especially if the animal is wet. Continue until the rectal temperature reaches 100F. Provide an energy source such as a couple of tablespoons of honey in a cup of warm water once the dog begins to move about. As the tissues warm, they may be painful causing the animal to bite or chew at the area. Contact your veterinarian in all cases of moderate hypothermia.

When body temperatures drop below 82F, severe hypothermia sets in and the results are collapse and coma. Severe hypothermia is a medical emergency and requires intensive veterinary care including core warming techniques and intravenous fluids. Homeopathic Aconite 30C may be given every 15 minutes until the animal begins to respond. If he or she is unconscious, alternate with Carbo vegetabilis 30C, in drop or crushed form.

Prevention, as always, is the best medicine. Reduce outdoor excursions in extreme cold or wind chill conditions especially for old or debilitated pets and provide protective coats (and boots if tolerated) for shorthaired or recently clipped ones. Getting wet increases the risk and speed of onset. Watch for signs of cold including reluctance to move or shaking a leg due to cold and painful feet. Do not leave your pet outside without supervision. Do not leave your pet in the car while you run errands on a cold day. The temperature inside the car can drop quickly especially in a strong wind. Remember too, while you may be warm and comfortable in several insulating layers of clothing, your pet may not be as well protected.

Frostbite is also a problem for dogs and cats, generally effecting the tips of the ears, the tail, scrotum and, rarely, the toes. A frostbitten area appears gray or white and is cold and hard to the touch; it is usually painless. Early treatment is important:

• Warm the part with warm water soaks or compresses (warm to the wrist).
• Do not use hot water, dry heat such as hair dryers, or rub the area.
• Never warm a frostbitten area if it cannot be kept warm. Refreezing can cause serious tissue damage.

As circulation returns, the skin will become red and swollen and may be very painful. Keep your pet warm and have him/her checked immediately by your veterinarian. If the circulation has been severely compromised, there will be a line of demarcation between live and dead tissue, which will eventually slough off. In severe cases amputation may be necessary.

You can support your pet's recovery through the use of homeopathic Agaricus muscarius 6C every hour in the acute phase, until circulation is restored. Calendula cream applied to swollen or blistered skin two or three times a day is soothing and healing.

As with hypothermia, prevention is your best defense against frostbite. Reduce outdoor time in extreme cold and wind chill conditions, and do not leave your pet outside unsupervised. A few simple precautions and changes to your routine will leave your pet healthier and happier this winter.

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Dr. Victoria Dale-Harris is a licensed veterinarian and a doctor of naturopathic medicine.

She began her career in a small animal veterinary practice and while raising five children she first studied veterinary acupuncture. With additional training in alternative therapies, she became increasingly interested in the connection between the environment and health, both our own and that of our animals. She then returned to school to study naturopathic medicine as it applies to humans. She has a special interest in preventive medicine and health optimisation through the reduction of exposure to toxins, elimination of toxic loads in the body and support of the body’s natural systems of healing and balance.

Dr. Dale-Harris is committed to informing and inspiring people and organizations to make intelligent and sustainable choices so that they have the best possible health tomorrow for themselves, their families (including their pets), the environment and future generations.

Dr. Dale-Harris runs a naturopathic practice from two clinics in Toronto and operates a mobile holistic vet practice in central Toronto.

To reach Victoria, email her at Victoria@NaturallySavvy.com

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A: There can be many causes for itching and scratching including allergies, parasites and behavioural. I think that you are indicating in your email that he has had this problem before. If it is occurring with the onset of snowmelt each year there may be an allergic component to it, possibly to molds.

Topical treatment of the skin can be helpful but will not deal with the underlying problem. I would recommend that you consult with a holistic veterinarian to try to identify the cause.

I am not sure what you are currently feeding but a high quality holistic food is a an important part of any treatment or preventive approach. A balanced raw food diet is the best, supplemented with a high quality fish oil.

In the meantime, you could try aloe vera spray or gel to help with the healing. Look for an organic, stabilised gel product. Too much aloe vera sap can cause vomiting and diarrhea if he licks the area and ingests it. If you use a fresh leaf, be sure only to use the internal gel and do not allow any of the green liquid from the outer rind to contaminate it. Another herb that can help with healing is calendula, either as a tincture diluted one part with ten parts water, or as calendula cream applied in a thin layer and rubbed in as far as possible.

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