But just when it was looking like the consensus is that parabens are bad and don't belong in skincare products, I read an article citing conflicting information.

Are parabens not as bad as originally thought?

It may help to start by explaining exactly what parabens are and why they are used in skin care.

If you’ve ever read the ingredients list on your bottle of lotion, cream, or cleanser (and you should if you haven’t) there is a good chance the first ingredient is aqua or water.

Water in the first position is a good thing because more than anything else, our skin requires hydration to stay healthy. But any water-based skincare formulation is prone to bacteria, mold, and fungus growth, which can lead to skin infections.

To protect us against this problem, manufacturers add preservatives to their products during production.

But the business of preserving skincare is a complicated one. Different products may have different preservation requirements depending on such things as the composition of the formulation, the ratio of water to oil, or the pH level of the product.

In the case of parabens as preservatives, there are a number of different types, each one suited to a specific task. For example, before a lotion or cream is emulsified (mixed together, like salad dressing), propylparaben is added to the oil phase while methylparaben is added to the water phase. Once these two phases are combined, a third (and maybe fourth and fifth) type of paraben may also be added.

Not all parabens are created equal, and according to an increasing number of scientific studies, not all are equally safe.

Methylparaben, thought to be the most hazardous of all parabens, is the one to really watch out for. Research studies have linked it to everything from mild skin irritation to neurological and respiratory toxicity. But the big issue with methylparaben is its proven ability to mimic estrogen when it is absorbed into the bloodstream. For women in general, elevated levels of estrogen cause all kinds of health concerns; but for pregnant women in particular, there is growing concern over the potential danger to their developing fetuses.

The imbalance of hormones invitro may be responsible for the increased incidence in undescended testicles in newborn males, and increasingly younger maturation of adolescent girls.

Ideally, we should avoid parabens altogether, but with up to 90% of personal care products containing one type or another, managing our risk and avoiding the worst ones may be more realistic.

Parabens in “leave on” products, such as cosmetics, lotions, creams, and serums pose a greater risk because of their potential to be absorbed through your skin into your bloodstream. In “wash off” products such as body wash, shampoos, and conditioners, however, they are thought to be less risky.

Here, according to Environmental Working Group 3, are the most common parabens and how they are ranked in terms of toxicity.

High Hazard:

• Methylparaben (and sodium methylparaben)

Moderate Hazard:

• Butylparaben
• Propylparaben (and sodium propylparaben)
• Isopropylparaben
• Isobutylparaben
• Ethylparaben

Low Hazard:

• Polyparaben

Bottom Line

Protect yourself from harmful ingredients. Choose organic products whenever possible and always read the ingredient list of any personal care item you buy.

References

1] http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient/703937/METHYLPARABEN/

2] Winter, R. (2009) A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (2009). Random House.

3] Environmental Working Group (2010). Retrieved from http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/

The post Making Sense of Parabens appeared first on NaturallySavvy.com.

So protecting our skin with effective moisturizers isn’t just about maintaining youthful looks (although that’s a fortunate side effect), it’s about maintaining good health. Where I work, we say the three most important things you can do to keep your skin looking and feeling healthy and youthful, are moisturize, moisturize and moisturize. But all moisturizers are not created equal, and some may even do more harm than good, so here’s what you need to know about effective moisturization during the cold, dry months of winter.

Read more about skincare ingredients to avoid

Is your skin dry or dehydrated?

These two terms are often used interchangeably, but clinically, are very different conditions. Dry skin is caused by having too little oil, while dehydrated skin lacks water.

Dry skin is often genetic, but can also be caused by using harsh cleansing products with sulfates that strip your skin of its natural oils. Because oils help form the protective barrier of the skin, a lack of oils can also cause the skin to lose water too.

Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, is typically a result of damage from environmental elements like the wind and sun, and these are the conditions that are most responsible for causing the visible signs of aging – fine lines and wrinkles, lack of radiance, and a loss of elasticity.

Now choose the right moisturizer for your skin condition

Theoretically, we want to ensure our skin is hydrated with the right balance of oil (sebum) and water. For dry skin caused by too little oil, look for products that contain high concentrations of jojoba oil or olive oil. Jojoba oil can help regulate the production of sebum, so if your skin is oily, it will moderate production, if it is dry, it will increase production. Olive oil is one of our skin’s favorite skincare ingredients. We tolerate and absorb it well, it doesn’t clog pores, and it even helps skin to naturally exfoliate. In Europe and the Middle East, women have been using pure olive oil directly on their skin for centuries. Sophia Loren is said to bathe in it!

For severely dehydrated skin, look for products with ceramides, which are a type of fat found in all skin cells. In the right proportion, they will help to fortify your skin’s natural barrier, preventing water loss. There are four or five types of ceramides in our skin cells, and new research has shown that they must be in the proper ratio in moisturizing products to have a beneficial effect, so shop for a reputable brand.

A few important dos and don’ts:

Regardless of your skin type, your sex, and your age, healthier-looking and feeling skin is possible all year round. It takes a bit more work in the winter, but will definitely be worth the investment:

Don’t use a harsh cleanser, they can be enemy number one. If your skin feels tight and parched after cleansing, you have probably stripped some of the oil out in the process, and this is what leads to those nasty lines and wrinkles.

Do look for cleansers that do not contain sulfates (sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate). They are just as effective at removing surface impurities, and can even help strengthen your skin and make it healthier.

Do exfoliate, at least once a week; twice is ideal. Removing dead skin cells will not only make your skin look less sallow, but it will also help your moisturizers penetrate better.

Do moisturize. And moisturize and moisturize and moisturize. Every night. And every day. Regardless of skin type.

Do moisturize at night, it’s when your body is at rest, allowing your skin to better absorb, and benefit from, the nutrients in your skincare.

Don’t buy moisturizers that contain mineral oil or petrolatum. These ingredients sit on the surface of your skin, clog your pores, and prevent your skin from ‘breathing.’

Do eat a healthy diet, you will feed your skin the nutrition it needs from the inside, helping it to naturally maintain hydration and a youthful appearance.

Read more about beautiful skin from the inside out

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1. Wear safe, non-toxic sunscreen, even on cloudy days.

The worst sunburn I ever saw was on a person who thought she could stay out for hours without sunscreen because it was overcast. The sun’s burning rays are remarkably powerful and proficient, so wear sunscreen every day. When choosing a sunscreen, look for an SPF of at least 30, if you have fair skin. But don’t be seduced by super-high SPF numbers because their incremental sun protection diminishes as SPF increases, especially at higher levels. Many sunscreens with SPF from 50 to 100, for example, effectively block just 1-2% more sunburn rays than an SPF 30 products. Regardless of which SPF you choose, you should reapply often (ideally every 90 minutes), and always after swimming.

Read More: EWG's Sunscreen Guide is Your Friend This Summer

2. Avoid tanning beds.

We now know that tanning beds are linked to cancer and are no safer than the actual sun, so think carefully about the risks you expose yourself to when you go to a tanning salon. If you really want some summer skin color, avoid tanning beds and choose a safer option, such as self-tanning towels and lotions. Be sure to check the ingredients label to ensure the base formulation is safe and non-toxic (avoid methylparaben and synthetic perfume).

3. Exfoliate at least once a week, ideally twice.

Dead cells sit on the surface of your skin making it look dull, rough and dry. By exfoliating, you are removing these dead cells, allowing your more radiant, healthier summer skin to shine through. Exfoliating also allows skin cells to regenerate more quickly, which keeps aging at bay. Whenever possible, choose a gentle, more natural exfoliator. Some “fruit acid” exfoliators such as alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid (AHA and BHA) can actually be very harsh and cause significant irritation. Choose products with natural exfoliating grains instead.

Read More: Skin Brushing for Vibrant Health

4. Moisturize your skin

In the summer it is tempting to ease up on moisturizing because your skin may not feel as dry. But good moisturizers work over time, promoting healthy skin with consistent use. We don’t stop eating well or exercising in the summer, so we shouldn’t stop taking care of our skin. If you do happen to get a sunburn, act fast to mitigate the negative effects by moisturizing liberally and often with a lotion containing aloe vera. This will keep the burned skin well hydrated, and it will help to soothe the discomfort.

5. Have lots of summer fun, but don’t skimp on sleep.

Lack of sleep can lead to increased levels of stress hormones, which may slow the production of collagen in the skin. When our skin stops producing collagen, it begins to lose elasticity and starts looking tired and worn.

Read More: What Your Skin Says About Your Health

6. Drink lots of water.

Drinking water benefits how well your body functions and ultimately affects how your skin looks and feels. For example, proper hydration helps flush toxins from your body. When toxins build up, they cause organs such as your kidneys to work less efficiently, which has a direct impact on your skin. Sip water through out the day and consider following the 8 x 8 rule: drink eight 8 ounce glasses of water every day.

Following these simple tips will not only make your skin look and feel better, they will make YOU look and feel better.

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Perhaps the most dramatic changes we see in our skin, regardless of lifestyle and environmental factors, occur with the change of seasons. The most pronounced changes occur when our skin has to tolerate the cold, dry weather of winter. Regardless of where you live and how you live, there are a few things you can do to keep your skin looking and feeling healthy as we transition through the seasons each year.

Know Your Skin Type

If you don’t get this right, nothing else matters. Dry skin should be treated differently than oily skin, which should be treated differently than combination or sensitive skin. Every conversation with a beauty adviser should begin with your skin type.

Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate – Inside and Out

Drinking lots of water is a good start, but you also have to use a good moisturizer. Even in the summer, and even if your skin tends to be oily, you need to hydrate your skin and then lock the moisture in. Not only will your skin feel better, it will look younger and healthier.

Read more about ways to stay hydrated besides water

Cleanse Gently, but Effectively

Dirt and other impurities will cause premature aging, a sallow complexion and dryness. Cleansing is critical, but be sure to use a gentle, pH balanced and sulfate-free product so you don’t damage your skin’s natural moisture barrier.

Fight Skin-Damaging Free Radicals

Liberal, consistent use of antioxidant nutrients will help protect your skin from looking tired and worn, and will keep aging at bay. Natural source antioxidants, typically Vitamins C, E and A are best.

Eat a Healthy Diet

A balanced diet that emphasizes leafy greens, vegetables, fresh fruit and healthy fats will help feed your skin from inside. These foods are rich in antioxidants and long chain fatty acids that will nourish your skin and help protect it from aging.

Move Around, Work Out, Exercise

Sure it’s good for your heart, and it will definitely help you manage your weight, but exercise will also help your skin look better. The increased blood flow will improve radiance and help firm your skin, while working up a good sweat will help release toxins.

Choose Healthier, More Natural Skin Care

Regardless of your skin type or condition, you should try to choose

natural products. Increasingly we are learning that harsh synthetic

chemicals and highly processed skin care ingredients can cause

irritation, redness, and sensitivity. People who move to more natural

products often see an immediate and dramatic improvement in the

condition of their skin.

Exfoliate at Least Twice a Week

Removing dead skin cells is vital to a healthy skin care regimen. Your

skin will look and feel healthier and more vibrant, and your

moisturizers and nourishing serums will penetrate better.

Read more about skin brushing for vibrant health

Get a Good Night’s Sleep, and Prepare Your Skin Properly at Bedtime

When we are at rest our skin is better able to repair itself and regenerate. Take advantage of this by feeding your skin its most potent nourishment at night. Use a simple, natural moisturizer that is packed with nutrients.

Younger, healthier looking skin isn’t difficult to achieve, but it does take discipline. With just a bit of care and consideration your skin will look its best all year round.

Image: martinak15

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When it comes to skin care and cosmetics, manufacturers have become quite good at making their labels work for them. As Charles Revson, the founder of Revlon, famously said, “in the factory we manufacture cosmetics; in the store we sell hope.” No small order, selling hope. Let’s start with the label: “Softer, smoother looking skin.” “Younger looking skin from the first use.” “Eliminates the look of lines and wrinkles.” “For a more beautiful you.” “You’re worth it.” Hope, it seems, springs eternal!

While producing cosmetics labels that “sell” may seem like an art, it is actually a combination of art and government-regulated science. In virtually every developed country, there is a government agency responsible for regulating the content of cosmetics labels. And there is likely more there than initially meets the eye, so here is a quick guide to navigating the complex waters of cosmetics product labeling.

Read more about endocrine disruptors in personal care products

Product Identity

In addition to the brand name and descriptive name of the product, manufacturers must list the legal name of their company, their head office address, and the country in which the product was produced. You should always be able to directly contact the manufacturer of any cosmetic product you buy.

Product Description, Features, Benefits, Usage Instructions

While there is some regulation around this content, there is lots of wiggle room for manufacturers. In theory, product performance claims must be true and accurate. In practice, they are often vague enough to be misleading. Read this information carefully to understand what the manufacturer is really saying. “Eliminates the look of fine lines and wrinkles” does not mean it eliminates lines and wrinkles; just the look of lines and wrinkles. Typically when you stop using the product, they come back.

You should always read any warnings and special instructions to determine if the product is contraindicated for certain skin types, ages or conditions. Regardless of what the label says, every time you use a new product on yourself or a family member, test a small amount on the inside skin of your wrist or elbow. Any sensitivity caused by the product should be noticeable after just a few minutes.

Product Ingredients

All personal care products must list ingredients in standard, INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients) format. By this standard, ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration using the scientific name. Remember that some ingredients, such as “fragrance”, are catch-all terms for groups of ingredients. Unfortunately manufacturers aren’t obligated to disclose the composition of these ingredients, so some ingredients may be hidden.Learn which ingredients in turn are made up of these hidden ingredients so you can avoid some of the more toxic ones like phthalates, commonly found in “fragrance.”

Weights and Measures

In addition to the size of the product, typically measured in volume, you will also find other important product information symbols on labels. The most common ones are:

Jar Icon: Consider this a “best before” symbol. The number inside the open jar icon is the length of time in months the product will stay fresh after it has been opened. Typically, the longer the product will stay fresh, the more synthetic it is. More natural products typically have a shelf life of approximately 12 months.

Triangular Recycling Symbol:  This is a standard recycling symbol found on virtually all plastic cosmetics containers, and is important for two reasons. First, it tells you what type of recycling program is required for this particular container, and second, it tells you what kind of plastic the container is made from (PVC, LDPE, HDPE, etc). Some types of plastic should be avoided because they are thought to leach chemicals into the products inside.

Read more about plastics and recycling numbers

Certified Organic Logo: Increasingly common are symbols representing organic, natural product, or soil management certification programs. Each of these programs has different criteria for certifying products, so familiarize yourself as best you can with their guidelines so you know what you are buying.

e: The large ‘e’ symbol found following the size means the product was filled using European Union system of measures. This typically means the product is sold overseas.

With just a little bit of label sleuthing, you can save yourself from building up mountains of half-used products at home. Knowing what to look for (and what to avoid!) can help separate the ones that really deliver from the pretenders. Because while hope itself costs nothing, that wrinkle cream doesn’t.

Image: Cascadian Farm

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What if the scent of that rose was actually derived from chemicals with names like dibutyl phthalate and diethylhexyl phthalate? The scent, while authentic, may not seem so sweet after all. Almost certainly, at least, it would lose its romance.

For many, scent is one of the most important criteria in choosing a beauty product. Regardless of how well any given beauty treatment claims it works, if you don’t like how it smells, you probably won’t buy it.

But when you make your choices based primarily on scent, what are you really buying?

Scent in beauty products is typically derived from one of two broad groups of ingredients: natural perfume, and synthetic perfume.

Natural perfume, often referred to as essential oil, is almost never dangerous, and depending on the concentration may even have some therapeutic benefits. At the very least, we know scent is closely tied to memory and is capable of changing our mood, so assuming the natural scent is free of any toxic chemical preservatives or stabilizers, its ability to simply make us feel good may be reason enough to enjoy it.

The cost of extracting natural scents from their botanical origins, however, is high. Many plants produce very little scent oil, or oil with scent that rapidly dissipates, so scientists have tried to replicate natural scent by developed chemical concoctions sometimes referred to euphemistically as “nature identical.”

But make no mistake, these chemical wannabes are not even remotely related to the make up of natural scent. Rather, they’re formulated from petrochemicals, animal byproducts and more often than not, phthalates (pronounced thal-ates).

In fact, according to Environment Working Group, phthalates in fragrance are in over seventy percent of beauty products, although they seldom appear in the ingredients listing on the label. The reason? Because phthalates are an “ingredient in an ingredient,” which means they are typically buried in “perfume” or “fragrance,” the common names for synthetic scents.

While it was previously thought that low levels of phthalates are harmless, an increasing number of scientists now believe there is no safe level of exposure.

When absorbed into the bloodstream, phthalates mimic estrogen. In women, this can cause breast cancer and ovarian cysts among a myriad of other complications; and in women pregnant with baby boys, the higher level of estrogen means the concentration of testosterone in their developing fetus is by comparison, relatively low.

Recent studies suggest this hormone imbalance in male fetuses can play a major role in the abnormal development of the male reproductive system, which accounts for an increased incidence in the general population of undesended testicles, a condition called hypospadias (where the urethra opens on the underside rather than the tip of the penis), smaller penises, and even lower birth weight.

What’s most unfortunate is that phthalates simply aren’t necessary in beauty products, and they’re easy to avoid.

If you prefer scented products, then choose ones with essential oils rather than perfumes. Better yet, choose unscented products; but be sure to read the label carefully, because even “unscented” products may contain perfume or fragrance as a masking scent.

The good news is that governments and regulatory bodies are starting to recognize the health issues associated with phthalates, and are enacting legislation to protect consumers.

Al Franken, the comedian turned Minnesota Senator, recently introduced Senate legislation to force manufacturers of household cleaning products to list toxic ingredients like phthalates on their labels.

This measure, when extended to beauty products, will help protect us even more.

How to buy safer cosmetics:

• Read the label on your beauty products before you buy them.
• Avoid products that contain “perfume,” “fragrance,” or “parfum.” While they sound pretty, these are usually synthetic scents that typically contain phthalates.
• Buy products that list the essential scent oil explicitly on the label. If you’re not sure, ask a Beauty Advisor.
• Pregnant women should always choose products without any added scent, perfume or fragrance.

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